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	<title>Comments on: Mud-munching bacteria and barley straw</title>
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	<link>http://jeremybiggs.wordpress.com/2010/03/16/mud-munching-bacteria-and-barley-straw/</link>
	<description>&#34;If only I had found this website last year when I started my pond!”</description>
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		<title>By: Jeremy Biggs</title>
		<link>http://jeremybiggs.wordpress.com/2010/03/16/mud-munching-bacteria-and-barley-straw/#comment-1091</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jeremy Biggs]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 16 Mar 2010 04:42:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thegardenpondblog.org.uk/?p=3450#comment-1091</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi Sally - I did do that to my new pond (I have two in the garden). When I first made the new pond it ended up wth a conductivity around 350. Given that I thought I&#039;d added only rainwater to it (conductivity in this area usually around 85), and given that my old pond had a conductivity steadily around the 100 mark - I began to wonder.

I think what had happened was that during the summer when I made it (last year that is) I had accidentally run a load of tap water into the pond when emptying a big paddling pool onto the grass nearby.

So I bit the bullet and changed the water.

But.....and this is the but, I was pretty confident that there wouldn&#039;t be any other sources of polllutants around the pond - particularly no bare soil to wash in, and of course the pond had no sediments to speak of at that point (and actually I removed what little there was anyway). Also I can see that you&#039;re keeping fish - which will make the water quality management a bit more more difficult. There&#039;s nothing wrong with fish, of course (I say that because lots of people over here say fish and wildlife don&#039;t mix) but it is more difficult to maintain water quality, in a way that will keep algal growth under control in relatively small ponds, when you have fish.

So if you were to do a complete water change you&#039;d need to remove sediments too, and be confident that there weren&#039;t other significant sources of nutrients that could run into the pond too - I think in the garden the main risk will be from soil getting into the pond one way or another. But given that you&#039;re keeping fish, and maybe feeding them, it might not be worth the trouble because you&#039;ll soon be re-supplying nutrients just in the normal course of looking after your fish.

So because we&#039;re all still learning about these clean water ponds - and even though everything says - yes, clean water is key - I&#039;m reluctant to say - &#039;just go ahead, it&#039;s absolutely the right thing to do&#039; because so far we don&#039;t have very much practical evidence of how well water changes work.

It would be interesting to know a bit more about the set up of your pond - water source, surroundings and so on.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Sally &#8211; I did do that to my new pond (I have two in the garden). When I first made the new pond it ended up wth a conductivity around 350. Given that I thought I&#8217;d added only rainwater to it (conductivity in this area usually around 85), and given that my old pond had a conductivity steadily around the 100 mark &#8211; I began to wonder.</p>
<p>I think what had happened was that during the summer when I made it (last year that is) I had accidentally run a load of tap water into the pond when emptying a big paddling pool onto the grass nearby.</p>
<p>So I bit the bullet and changed the water.</p>
<p>But&#8230;..and this is the but, I was pretty confident that there wouldn&#8217;t be any other sources of polllutants around the pond &#8211; particularly no bare soil to wash in, and of course the pond had no sediments to speak of at that point (and actually I removed what little there was anyway). Also I can see that you&#8217;re keeping fish &#8211; which will make the water quality management a bit more more difficult. There&#8217;s nothing wrong with fish, of course (I say that because lots of people over here say fish and wildlife don&#8217;t mix) but it is more difficult to maintain water quality, in a way that will keep algal growth under control in relatively small ponds, when you have fish.</p>
<p>So if you were to do a complete water change you&#8217;d need to remove sediments too, and be confident that there weren&#8217;t other significant sources of nutrients that could run into the pond too &#8211; I think in the garden the main risk will be from soil getting into the pond one way or another. But given that you&#8217;re keeping fish, and maybe feeding them, it might not be worth the trouble because you&#8217;ll soon be re-supplying nutrients just in the normal course of looking after your fish.</p>
<p>So because we&#8217;re all still learning about these clean water ponds &#8211; and even though everything says &#8211; yes, clean water is key &#8211; I&#8217;m reluctant to say &#8211; &#8216;just go ahead, it&#8217;s absolutely the right thing to do&#8217; because so far we don&#8217;t have very much practical evidence of how well water changes work.</p>
<p>It would be interesting to know a bit more about the set up of your pond &#8211; water source, surroundings and so on.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: Sally</title>
		<link>http://jeremybiggs.wordpress.com/2010/03/16/mud-munching-bacteria-and-barley-straw/#comment-1090</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Sally]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 16 Mar 2010 04:27:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thegardenpondblog.org.uk/?p=3450#comment-1090</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Do you suggest doing a complete water change? I am a bit confused because no one ever intends to have polluted water.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Do you suggest doing a complete water change? I am a bit confused because no one ever intends to have polluted water.</p>
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